Polynucleotides for under eyes: do they actually work?

Polynucleotides have gone from being relatively unknown to appearing absolutely everywhere in aesthetics.

The under-eye area is probably where they've attracted the most attention.

So are polynucleotide injections actually useful for under-eye concerns, or is this another aesthetic treatment being marketed considerably faster than the evidence is developing?

The answer sits somewhere in the middle.

What are polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are purified chains of nucleotides — the molecular building blocks associated with DNA.

In aesthetic medicine they are injected into the skin as a regenerative or biostimulatory treatment, with the aim of supporting tissue repair and improving skin quality.

Unlike dermal filler, the objective isn't to physically replace lost volume.

That distinction is particularly relevant around the eyes.

Why are polynucleotides used under the eyes?

The skin around our eyes is thin and delicate.

With age, genetics, sun exposure and changes in the underlying tissues, the area can develop fine lines, crepey texture and changes in skin quality.

Polynucleotides may therefore be considered when the problem we are trying to improve is primarily the quality of the skin itself.

Results develop gradually rather than producing an immediate volumising effect.

Can polynucleotides get rid of dark circles?

This depends entirely on why your under-eyes look dark.

“Dark circles” aren't one diagnosis.

Pigmentation can make the area look darker. Thin skin can make underlying vessels more visible. Facial anatomy and shadowing can create darkness. Volume loss can contribute to hollowing. Lifestyle factors can alter the appearance further.

One injectable cannot logically correct all of those different causes.

So before recommending polynucleotides for dark circles, I want to establish what is actually creating the appearance you're concerned about.

Polynucleotides or tear trough filler?

They do different jobs.

Tear trough filler aims to alter volume and contour in carefully selected patients.

Polynucleotides aim to improve the quality of the tissue rather than fill a hollow.

If somebody has thin, crepey under-eye skin, adding volume isn't necessarily the answer.

Equally, if somebody's concern is predominantly structural hollowing, improving skin quality won't magically change their anatomy.

This is why treatment selection matters more than whichever injectable happens to be trending.

Do polynucleotides actually work?

There is emerging clinical evidence suggesting that polynucleotide-based injectable treatments may improve measures of skin quality.

However, I think it is important to be proportionate about the evidence.

Polynucleotides are newer to aesthetic medicine than many established treatments, and the available research is still developing. Studies vary in the products used, treatment protocols and outcomes measured.

I therefore don't describe them as a miracle treatment and I don't promise that they will “reverse ageing”.

I see them as one potential tool for improving skin quality in an appropriately selected patient.

How many treatments do you need?

Polynucleotide treatment is generally undertaken as a course rather than expecting one session to transform the under-eye area.

The exact product, number of sessions and spacing depend on the treatment area and individual plan.

Results also take time to develop.

This is a treatment for somebody comfortable with gradual improvement rather than an immediate change.

Is there downtime?

Small bumps at injection sites, swelling and bruising can occur after treatment.

This is particularly worth remembering if you're having polynucleotides before a wedding, holiday or important event.

I would much rather plan treatment early than rely on your face politely agreeing not to bruise because you have somewhere important to be.

Are polynucleotides right for me?

Potentially — but not simply because you have under-eyes.

I would consider:

• what specifically bothers you

• the quality and thickness of the skin

• whether pigmentation is involved

• whether anatomy or volume loss is contributing

• your medical history

• what you've previously tried

• the result you're expecting

Sometimes polynucleotides make sense.

Sometimes skincare or another treatment is more appropriate.

And sometimes what you're looking at is completely normal anatomy that doesn't particularly need treating.

Under-eye polynucleotides in Alderley Edge

I offer polynucleotide treatments at DR JACKSON SKIN, my doctor-led aesthetics and skincare clinic in Alderley Edge, Cheshire, close to Wilmslow.

My approach is deliberately conservative: establish what is actually causing the concern first, and then decide whether treatment is likely to improve it.

If you're considering polynucleotides for your under-eyes, you can book a consultation to discuss whether they are appropriate for you, what results are realistic and how they fit into your wider skincare or treatment plan.