Polynucleotides for under eyes: what can they actually improve? (aka the “Salmon sperm facial”
It’s not salmon sperm. And it’s not a facial.
Polynucleotides have become one of the more talked-about treatments in aesthetics over the last couple of years.
As with most things that become popular quickly, the marketing can get slightly ahead of reality.
They are not going to erase eye bags overnight. They will not replace surgery. And they are not the answer to every dark circle.
But in the right person, they can be a useful option for improving the quality of the very delicate skin around the eyes.
What are polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are injectable products containing purified fragments of DNA.
Rather than being used primarily to create volume or reshape an area, they are used as a regenerative skin treatment.
The aim is to support processes involved in skin repair and improve qualities such as hydration, elasticity and overall skin texture over time.
This is why I tend to think of them as a skin-quality treatment, rather than a filler.
What can they help with around the eyes?
The patients I think are most suited to under-eye polynucleotides are generally those concerned about things such as:
fine or crepey skin
early lines
poor skin quality
dehydration
a generally tired appearance
thin skin where improving the quality of the tissue may help the area look healthier
Changes are gradual rather than dramatic.
You are aiming for the skin to look better rather than for the anatomy underneath it to be completely changed.
What will they not fix?
This is probably the more useful question.
Polynucleotides will not remove a significant eye bag.
They will not completely correct a deep structural hollow.
They are also unlikely to make a major difference to strongly pigmented dark circles where pigmentation is the main problem.
That does not make them ineffective. It simply means the treatment needs to be matched to the concern.
If somebody has a prominent tear trough because of volume loss, we need to discuss that.
If somebody has significant lower eyelid fat pads, we need to discuss that.
And if the concern is predominantly pigmentation, skincare and pigmentation treatments may need to form part of the plan.
How many treatments do you need?
Polynucleotide treatment is generally performed as a course rather than expecting one appointment to produce the finished result.
The exact protocol depends on the product being used and the individual patient, but treatments are usually spaced over several weeks.
Results then develop gradually as the skin responds.
This is not a treatment I would book a week before an important event expecting a dramatic transformation.
What is the downtime?
Small bumps, redness, swelling and bruising are possible after treatment, particularly around the eyes where swelling can be quite noticeable in some people.
The small raised areas caused by the injections usually settle, but I always recommend allowing some breathing room before photographs, weddings or important events.
Are polynucleotides better than under-eye filler?
They do completely different jobs.
Dermal filler is primarily used to alter volume and structure.
Polynucleotides are used to improve skin quality.
Some patients might benefit from one, some from the other, some from a carefully planned combination, and some from neither.
That is why I don't think it is particularly helpful to ask which treatment is “best” without first working out what is causing the concern.
Polynucleotides in Alderley Edge
At DR JACKSON SKIN, I offer polynucleotide treatments following a full consultation and assessment of the under-eye area.
If your main concern is tired-looking, fine or crepey under-eye skin, we can assess what is contributing to it and whether polynucleotides are a sensible option for you.